There are tool watches—and then there’s the Rolex Submariner. Since its debut in 1953, the Submariner has become the blueprint not only for dive watches, but for modern sport watches as a whole. It’s a watch that’s spent nearly seven decades evolving in small, deliberate steps. The current ref. 124060, introduced in 2020, is perhaps the clearest distillation yet of what the Submariner was always meant to be.
At first glance, it may look nearly identical to its predecessor, the 114060. But look closer and you’ll find refinement in every corner. The case has grown ever so slightly—from 40mm to 41mm—but paradoxically wears more balanced on the wrist, thanks to thinner lugs and a more elegant profile. The result is a watch that feels both sturdier and more comfortable.
The bezel remains the unidirectional Cerachrom insert, impervious to scratching or fading, with crisp platinum-filled numerals. Inside, the movement has been upgraded to the caliber 3230, a next-generation automatic with 70 hours of power reserve, a Chronergy escapement, and Parachrom hairspring—delivering improved efficiency, durability, and anti-magnetism without compromising on Rolex’s signature accuracy.
True to its no-date lineage, the 124060 keeps the dial clean, symmetrical, and focused. White gold surrounds on the Chromalight lume plots and hands provide contrast against the rich gloss black dial, glowing blue in low light. Water resistance remains at 300 meters, as it should.
Paired with the reworked Oyster bracelet and a subtly improved Glidelock clasp, this Submariner wears like a watch that’s spent 70 years becoming quietly perfect.
In an age where dive watches are often over-designed, the 124060 is restraint at its most refined. No date, no fluff, no excess—just the modern evolution of the original dive watch, done exactly right. For purists, it's not just a Submariner. It's the Submariner.
