1958 Rolex Submariner ‘James Bond’ Ref. 5508 'Small Crown' service tritium dial

The Rolex Submariner 5508, produced from 1958 to 1962, is one of the most iconic early models in the Submariner collection. It is often referred to as the "Transitional" Submariner because it marked a shift in design elements from earlier models to the more modern versions that followed.

 

The small crown version of the 5508 is particularly collectible because it was only produced for a short period, making it rarer. The "small crown" is typically associated with the early 5508 models (circa 1958–1960). This version is often sought after by collectors who appreciate the vintage design and its place in the evolution of the Submariner line.

 

The Rolex Submariner 5508 is often informally referred to as the "James Bond" watch due to its appearance in early James Bond films. Specifically, reference 5508 is believed to be the model worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in the 1962 film "Dr. No". This movie marked the debut of the character on screen, and Bond's rugged yet sophisticated look included the iconic Submariner, which helped solidify the watch's association with the character.

 

While there’s some debate over the exact model worn by Connery (some suggest it might have been the reference 6538), the 5508 is often linked to the Bond legacy because it shares similar design features, such as the bezel and dial. The connection with the 5508 and "James Bond" has persisted in watch culture, even though subsequent Bond films featured different watches, most notably the Omega Seamaster from the 1990s onward.

 

It is important to note that the 5508 also had a later version with a larger crown and crown guards, which is sometimes referred to as the "large crown" version. Both versions exist, but the small crown variant is generally regarded as the more desirable and collectible of the two.

 

The Rolex Submariner 5508 (like many watches from the 1950s and early 1960s) featured radium-based luminous dials. However, radium is radioactive, and over time, it was discovered to be hazardous to health. By the mid-1960s, the use of radium in watch dials was phased out and replaced by safer materials, such as tritium, which was introduced for luminous applications in watches. However, some 5508 models were fitted with replacement tritium dials during servicing or repairs, particularly in the 1960s and 1970s, when tritium replaced radium as the luminous material for watch dials. Rolex started using tritium lume in the early 1960s, and by that time, radium was phased out due to its radioactive properties. Watches that were serviced during this transition could have had their original radium dials replaced with tritium dials, which had a similar appearance but were safer and more stable over time. These replacement dials were typically part of official Rolex service procedures. These tritium dials are marked with a "T<25" marking on the dial (near the 6 o'clock position), indicating that the dial contains tritium, and the radioactivity is below 25 millicuries, which is a safe level for the wearer.

Offered for sale here is a Rolex Submariner ‘James Bond’ Ref. 5508 ‘Small Crown’ with service tritium dial from 1958.

 

The original, untouched, tritium service dial remains in excellent condition showing hardly any wear and features a stunning and clean puffy patina hue. The hands have aged to a darker hue.

 

The stainless steel case remains in strong shape, with very sharp and pronounced bevels which follow factory standard and only light signs of wear. The case back remains in the same condition. The inside of the case back is correctly stamped 5508 and II. 1958. The bi-directional bezel remains in great condition, as well as the insert that shows only light wear and a petrol blue hue when exposed to sunlight. The pip/pearl is a luminova replacement.

 

The watch is running well and keeping time, although service history is unknown.

 

The original domed crystal is still present and shows some minor scratches tht could be easily polished away and a very subtle crackling (probably caused by the time when it wore the radium dial).

 

It is suited on an unworn leather strap with steel buckle.

 

Macros of dial and case are available under request, as well as inner case back and movement pictures.